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Practical Cannabis Growing Guide (Guaranteed
to pay for itself many times over)
The ultimate and only Cannabis growing resource on CD-ROM. The
Practical Cannabis Growing guide provides you with insight and
step by step instructions to grow your own cannabis plants from
seed to harvest. It includes video, pictorials and a thorough
guide that illustrates many ways to put this amazing plant to
good use.
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FOR
MARIJUANA CANNABIS SEEDS GROWING INSTRUCTIONS CLICK HERE
Growing marijuana - The best Marijuana Growing Guide
Growing marijuana indoors is fast becoming an American
Pastime. The reasons are varied. With the increased interest and experimentation
in house plant cultivation, it was inevitable that people would apply
their knowledge of plant care to growing marijuana. Many of those who
occasionally like to light up a joint may find it difficult to locate
a source or are hesitant to deal with a perhaps unsavory element of society
in procuring their grass. There is, of course, the criminal aspect of
buying or selling grass; Growing marijuana is just as illegal as buying,
selling, or smoking it, but growing is something you can do in the privacy
of your own home without having to deal with someone you don't know or
trust. The best reason for growing your own is the enjoyment you will
get out of watching those tiny little seeds you picked out of you stash
sprout and become some of the most lovely and lush of all house plants.
Anyone Can Do It
Even if you haven't had any prior experience with growing
plants in you home, you can have a successful crop of marijuana by following
the simple directions in this pamphlet. If you have had problems in the
past with marijuana cultivation, you may find the solutions in the following
chapters. Growing a marijuana plant involves four basic steps:
- Get the seeds. If you don't already have some, you can ask your
friends to save you seeds out of any good grass they may come across.
You'll find that lots of people already have a seed collection of
some sort and are willing to part with a few prime seeds in exchange
for some of the finished product.
- Germinate the seeds. You can simply drop a seed into moist soil,
but by germinating the seeds first you can be sure that the seed will
indeed produce a plant. To germinate seeds, place a group of them
between about six moist paper towels, or in the pores of a moist sponge.
Leave the towels or sponge moist but not soaking wet. Some seeds will
germinate in 24 hours while others may take several days or even a
week.
- Plant the sprouts. As soon as a seed cracks open and begins to sprout,
place it on some moist soil and sprinkle a little soil over the top
of it.
- Supply the plants with light. Fluorescent lights are the best. Hang
the lights with two inches of the soil and after the plants appear
above the ground, continue to keep the lights with two inches of the
plants. It is as easy as that. If you follow those four steps you
will grow a marijuana plant. To ensure prime quality and the highest
yield in the shortest time period, however, a few details are necessary.
Your prime concern, after choosing high quality seeds,
is the soil. Use the best soil you can get. Scrimping on the soil doesn't
pay off in the long run. If you use unsterilized soil you will almost
certainly find parasites in it, probably after it is too late to transplant
your marijuana. You can find excellent soil for sale at your local plant
shop or nursery, K-Mart, Wal Mart, and even some grocery stores. The soil
you use should have these properties for the best possible results:
- It should drain well. That is, it should have some sand in it and
also some sponge rock or pearlite.
- The pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5 since marijuana does not do
well in acidic soil. High acidity in soil encourages the plant to
be predominantly male, an undesirable trait.
- The soil should also contain humus for retaining moisture and nutrients.
If you want to make your own soil mixture, you can use
this recipe: Mix two parts moss with one part sand and one part pearlite
or sponge rock to each four gallons of soil. Test your soil for pH with
litmus paper or with a soil testing kit available at most plant stores.
To raise the pH of the soil, add 1/2 lb. lime to 1 cubic foot of soil
to raise the pH one point. If you absolutely insist on using dirt you
dug up from your driveway, you must sterilize it by baking it in your
oven for about an hour at 250 degrees. Be sure to moisten it thoroughly
first and also prepare yourself for a rapid evacuation of your kitchen
because that hot soil is going to stink. Now add to the mixture about
one tablespoon of fertilizer (like Rapid-Gro) per gallon gallon of soil
and blend it in thoroughly. Better yet, just skip the whole process and
spend a couple bucks on some soil.
After you have prepared your soil, you will have to come
up with some kind of container to plant in. The container should be sterilized
as well, especially if they have been used previously for growing other
plants. The size of the container has a great deal to do with the rate
of growth and overall size of the plant. You should plan on transplanting
your plant not more than one time, since the process of transplanting
can be a shock to the plant and it will have to undergo a recovery period
in which growth is slowed or even stopped for a short while. The first
container you use should be no larger than six inches in diameter and
can be made of clay or plastic. To transplant, simply prepare the larger
pot by filling it with soil and scooping out a little hole about the size
of the smaller pot that the plant is in. Turn the plant upside down, pot
and all, and tap the rim of the pot sharply on a counter or the edge of
the sink. The soil and root ball should come out of the pot cleanly with
the soil retaining the shape of the pot and with no disturbances to the
root ball. Another method that can bypass the transplanting problem is
using a Jiffy-Pot. Jiffy pots are made of compressed peat moss and can
be planted right into moist soil where they decompose and allow the passage
of the root system through their walls. The second container should have
a volume of at least three gallons. Marijuana doesn't like to have its
roots bound or cramped for space, so always be sure that the container
you use will be deep enough for your plant's root system. It is very difficult
to transplant a five-foot marijuana tree, so plan ahead. It is going to
get bigger. The small plants should be ready to transplant into their
permanent homes in about two weeks. Keep a close watch on them after the
first week or so and avoid root binding at all costs since the plants
never seem to do as well once they have been stunted by the cramping of
their roots.
Marijuana likes lots of food, but you can do damage to
the plants if you are too zealous. Some fertilizers can burn a plant and
damage its roots if used in to high a concentration. Most commercial soil
will have enough nutrients in it to sustain the plant for about three
weeks of growth so you don't need to worry about feeding your plant until
the end of the third week. The most important thing to remember is to
introduce the fertilizer concentration to the plant gradually. Start with
a fairly diluted fertilizer solution and gradually increase the dosage.
There are several good marijuana fertilizers on the commercial market,
two of which are Rapid-Gro and Eco-Grow. Rapid-Gro has had widespread
use in marijuana cultivation and is available in most parts of the United
States. Eco-Grow is also especially good for marijuana since it contains
an ingredient that keeps the soil from becoming acid. Most fertilizers
cause a pH change in the soil. Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always
results in a more acidic pH.
As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown
of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become increasingly acidic
and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will stunt
the plant and cause browning out of the foliage. Also, as the plant gets
older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves.
To avoid the accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that
your plant is getting all of the food it needs you can begin leaf feeding
your plant at the age of about 1.5 months. Dissolve the fertilizer in
worm water and spray the mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves
absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you want to continue to put
fertilizer into the soil as well as leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose
your plants.
Remember to increase the amount of food your plant receives
gradually. Marijuana seems to be able to take as much fertilizer as you
want to give it as long as it is introduced over a period of time. During
the first three months or so, fertilize your plants every few days. As
the rate of foliage growth slows down in the plant's preparation for blooming
and seed production, the fertilizer intake of the plant should be slowed
down as well. Never fertilize the plant just before you are going to harvest
it since the fertilizer will encourage foliage production and slow down
resin production. A word here about the most organic of fertilizers: worm
castings. As you may know, worms are raised commercially for sale to gardeners.
The breeders put the worms in organic compost mixtures and while the worms
are reproducing they eat the organic matter and expel some of the best
marijuana food around. After the worms have eaten all the organic matter
in the compost, they are removed and sold and the remains are then sold
as worm castings. These castings are so rich that you can grow marijuana
in straight worm castings. This isn't really necessary however, and it
is somewhat impractical since the castings are very expensive. If you
can afford them you can, however, blend them in with your soil and they
will make a very good organic fertilizer.
Without light, the plants cannot grow. In the countries
in which marijuana grows best, the sun is the source of light. The amount
of light and the length of the growing season in these countries results
in huge treelike plants. In most parts of North America, however, the
sun is not generally intense enough for long enough periods of time to
produce the same size and quality of plants that grow with ease in Latin
America and other tropical countries. The answer to the problem of lack
of sun, especially in the winter months, shortness of the growing season,
and other problems is to grow indoor under simulated conditions. The rule
of thumb seems to be the more light, the better. In one experiment we
know of, eight eight-foot VHO Gro-Lux fixtures were used over eight plants.
The plants grew at an astonishing rate. The lights had to be raised every
day. There are many types of artificial light and all of them do different
things to your plants. The common incandescent light bulb emits some of
the frequencies of light the plant can use, but it also emits a high percentage
of far red and infra-red light which cause the plant to concentrate its
growth on the stem. This results in the plant stretching toward the light
bulb until it becomes so tall and spindly that it just weakly topples
over. There are several brands of bulb type. One is the incandescent plant
spot light which emits higher amounts of red and blue light than the common
light bulb. It is an improvement, but has it drawbacks. It is hot, for
example, and cannot be placed close to the plants. Consequently, the plant
has to stretch upwards again and is in danger of becoming elongated and
falling over. The red bands of light seem to encourage stem growth which
is not desirable in growing marijuana. The idea is to encourage foliage
growth for obvious reasons. Gro-Lux lights are probably the most common
fluorescent plant lights. In our experience with them, they have proven
themselves to be extremely effective. They range in size from one to eight
feet in length so you can set up a growing room in a closet or a warehouse.
There are two types of Gro-Lux lights: The standard and the wide spectrum.
They can be used in conjunction with on another, but the wide spectrum
lights are not sufficient on their own. The wide spectrum lights were
designed as a supplementary light source and are cheaper than the standard
lights. Wide spectrum lights emit the same bands of light as the standard
but the standard emit higher concentrations of red and blue bands that
the plants need to grow. The wide spectrum lights also emit infra-red,
the effect of which on stem growth we have already discussed. If you are
planning to grow on a large scale, you might be interested to know that
the regular fluorescent lamps and fixtures, the type that are used in
commercial lighting, work well when used along with standard Gro- Lux
lights. These commercial lights are called cool whites, and are the cheapest
of the fluorescent lights we have mentioned. They emit as much blue light
as the Gro-Lux standards and the blue light is what the plants use in
foliage growth.
Now we come to the question of intensity. Both the standard
and wide spectrum lamps come in three intensities: regular output, high
output, and very high output. You can grow a nice crop of plants under
the regular output lamps and probably be quite satisfied with our results.
The difference in using the HO or VHO lamps is the time it takes to grow
a crop. Under a VHO lamp, the plants grow at a rate that is about three
times the rate at which they grow under the standard lamps. People have
been known to get a plant that is four feet tall in two months under one
of these lights. Under the VHO lights, one may have to raise the lights
every day which means a growth rate of ate least two inches a day. The
only drawback is the expense of the VHO lamps and fixtures. The VHO lamps
and fixtures are almost twice the price of the standard. If you are interested
in our opinion, they are well worth it. Now that you have your lights
up, you might be curious about the amount of light to give you plants
per day. The maturation date of your plants is dependent on how much light
they receive per day. The longer the dark period per day, the sooner the
plant will bloom. Generally speaking, the less dark per day the better
during the first six months of the plant's life. The older the plant is
before it blooms and goes to seed, the better the grass will be. After
the plant is allowed to bloom, its metabolic rate is slowed so that the
plant's quality does not increase with the age at the same rate it did
before it bloomed. The idea, then, is to let the plant get as old as possible
before allowing it to mature so that the potency will be a high as possible
at the time of harvest. One relatively sure way to keep your plants from
blooming until you are ready for them is to leave the lights on all the
time. Occasionally a plant will go ahead and bloom anyway, but it is the
exception rather than the rule. If your plants receive 12 hours of light
per day they will probably mature in 2 to 2.5 months. If they get 16 hours
of light per day they will probably be blooming in 3.5 to 4 months. With
18 hours of light per day, they will flower in 4.5 to 5 months. Its a
good idea to put your lights on a timer to ensure that the amount of light
received each day remains constant. A "vacation" timer, normally used
to make it look like you are home while you are away, works nicely and
can be found at most hardware or discount stores.
Energy Emissions In Arbitrary Color Bands
40 Watt Fluorescent Lamps
In Watts and Percent of Total Emissions
|
|
Daylight |
Cool White |
Gro-Lux |
GroLux WS |
| Light Type |
Band |
Watts |
% |
Watts |
% |
|
| Ultra-Violet |
-380 |
0.186 |
2.15 |
0.16 |
1.68 |
0.10 |
1.42 |
0.27 |
3.16 |
| Violet |
380-430 |
0.832 |
9.60 |
0.72 |
7.57 |
0.70 |
9.67 |
1.07 |
12.48 |
| Blue |
430-490 |
2.418 |
27.91 |
1.98 |
20.78 |
1.96 |
27.07 |
1.22 |
14.29 |
| Green |
490-560 |
2.372 |
27.38 |
2.35 |
24.67 |
1.02 |
14.02 |
1.24 |
14.49 |
| Yellow |
560-590 |
1.259 |
14.53 |
1.74 |
18.27 |
0.10 |
1.42 |
0.83 |
9.77 |
| Orange |
590-630 |
1.144 |
13.21 |
1.69 |
17.75 |
0.44 |
6.05 |
1.36 |
15.93 |
| Red |
630-700 |
0.452 |
6.22 |
0.81 |
8.47 |
2.86 |
39.55 |
1.86 |
21.78 |
| Far Red |
700-780 |
0.130 |
1.53 |
0.07 |
0.81 |
0.06 |
0.80 |
0.69 |
8.10 |
| Total |
8.890 |
100.0 |
9.52 |
100.0 |
7.24 |
100.0 |
8.54 |
100.0 |
The ideal temperature for the light hours is 68 to 78
degrees Fahrenheit and for the dark hours there should be about a 15 degree
drop in temperature. The growing room should be relatively dry if possible.
What you want is a resinous coating on the leaves and to get the plant
to do this, you must convince it that it needs the resinous coating on
its leaves to protect itself from drying out. In an extremely humid room,
the plants develop wide leaves and do not produce as much resin. You must
take care not to let the temperature in a dry room become too hot, however,
since the plant cannot assimilate water fast enough through its roots
and its foliage will begin to brown out.
Proper ventilation in your growing room is fairly important.
The more plants you have in one room, the more important good ventilation
becomes. Plants breathe through their leaves. The also rid themselves
of poisons through their leaves. If proper ventilation is not maintained,
the pores of the leaves will become clogged and the leaves will die. If
there is a free movement of air, the poisons can evaporate off the leaves
and the plant can breathe and remain healthy.
In a small closet where there are only a few plants you
can probably create enough air circulation just by opening the door to
look at them. Although it is possible to grow healthy looking plants in
poorly ventilated rooms, they would be larger and healthier if they had
a fresh supply of air coming in. If you spend a lot of time in your growing
room, your plants will grow better because they will be using the carbon
dioxide that you are exhaling around them. It is sometimes quite difficult
to get a fresh supply of air in to your growing room because your room
is usually hidden away in a secret corner of your house, possibly in the
attic or basement. In this case, a fan will create some movement of air.
It will also stimulate your plants into growing a healthier and sturdier
stalk. Often times in an indoor environment, the stems of plants fail
to become rigid because they don't have to cope with elements of wind
and rain. To a degree, though, this is an advantage because the plant
puts most of its energy into producing leaves and resin instead of stems.
Cannabis that grows in a hot, dry climate will have narrower
leaves than cannabis grown in a humid atmosphere. The reason is that in
a dry atmosphere the plant can respire easier because the moisture on
the leaves evaporates faster. In a humid atmosphere, the moisture cannot
evaporate as fast. Consequently, the leaves have to be broader with more
surface area in order to expel the wastes that the plant put out. Since
the broad leaves produce less resin per leaf than the narrow there will
be more resin in an ounce of narrow leaves than in one ounce of broad
leaves. There may be more leaf mass in the broader leafed plants, but
most people are growing their own for quality rather than quantity.
Since the resin in the marijuana plant serves the purpose
of keeping the leaves from drying out, there is more apt to be a lot of
resin produced in a dry room than in a humid one. In the Sears catalog,
dehumidifiers cost around $100.00 and are therefore a bit impractical
for the "hobby grower."
If you live near a clear mountain stream, you can skip
this bit on the quality of water. Most of us are supplied water by the
city and some cities add more chemicals to the water than others. They
all add chlorine, however, in varying quantities. Humans over the years
have learned to either get rid of it somehow or to live with it, but your
marijuana plants won't have time to acquire a taste for it so you had
better see that they don't have to. Chlorine will evaporate if you let
the water stand for 24 hours in an open container. Letting the water stand
for a day or two will serve a dual purpose: The water will come to room
temperature during that period of time and you can avoid the nasty shock
your plants suffer when you drench them with cold water. Always water
with room temperature to lukewarm water. If your water has an excessive
amount of chlorine in it, you may want to get some anti- chlorine drops
at the local fish or pet store. The most important thing about watering
is to do it thoroughly. You can water a plant in a three gallon container
with as much as three quarts of water. The idea is to get the soil evenly
moist all the way to the bottom of the pot. If you use a little water,
even if you do it often, it seeps just a short way down into the soil
and any roots below the moist soil will start to turn upwards toward the
water. The second most important thing about watering is to see to it
that the pot has good drainage. There should be some holes in the bottom
so that any excess water will run out. If the pot won't drain, the excess
water will accumulate in a pocket and rot the roots of the plant or simply
make the soil sour or mildew. The soil, as we said earlier, must allow
the water to drain evenly through it and must not become hard or packed.
If you have made sure that the soil contains sand and pearlite, you shouldn't
have drainage problems. To discover when to water, feel the soil with
your finger. If you feel moisture in the soil, you can wait a day or two
to water. The soil near the top of the pot is always drier than the soil
further down. You can drown your plant just as easily as you can let it
get too dry and it is more likely to survive a dry spell than it is to
survive a torrential flood. Water the plants well when you water and don't
water them at all when they don't need it.
If you can avoid getting bugs in the first place you will
be much better off. Once your plants become infested you will probably
be fighting bugs for the rest of your plants' lives. To avoid bugs be
sure to use sterilized soil and containers and don't bring other plants
from outside into your growing room. If you have bets, ensure that they
stay out of your growing room, since they can bring in pests on their
fur. Examine your plants regularly for signs of insects, spots, holes
in the leaves, browning of the tips of the leaves, and droopy branches.
If you find that somehow in spite of all your precautions you have a plant
room full of bugs, you'll have to spray your plants with some kind of
insecticide. You'll want to use something that will kill the bugs and
not you. Spider mites are probably the bug that will do the most damage
to the marijuana plants. One of the reasons is that they are almost microscopic
and very hard to spot. They are called spider mites because they leave
a web-like substance clinging to the leaves. They also cause tiny little
spots to appear on the leaves. Probably the first thing you'll notice,
however, is that your plants look sick and depressed. The mites suck enzymes
from the leaves and as a result the leaves lose some of their green color
and glossiness. Sometimes the leaves look like they have some kid of fungus
on them. The eggs are very tiny black dots. You might be wise to get a
magnifying glass so that you can really scrutinize your plants closely.
Be sure to examine the underside of the leaves too. The mites will often
be found clinging to the underside as well as the top of the leaves. The
sooner you start fighting the bugs, the easier it will be to get rid of
them. For killing spider mites on marijuana, one of the best insecticides
if "Fruit and Berry" spray made by Millers. Ortho also produces several
insecticides that will kill mites. The ingredients to look for are Kelthane
and Malathion http://www.ncchem.com/malathion.htm [erowid note- Malathion
may be very toxic to humans, should be handled very carefully, and is
certainly not intended for indoor use. It also seems highly preferable
to avoid spraying pesticides or any chemicals on plants that will be smoked
without being washed thoroughly first.] Both of these poisons are lethal
to humans and pets as well as bugs, but they both detoxify in about ten
days so you can safely smoke the grass ten days after spraying. Fruit
and Berry will only kill the adult mite, however, and you'll have to spray
every four days for about two weeks to be sure that you have killed all
the adults before they have had a chance to lay eggs. Keep a close watch
on your plants because it only takes one egg laying adult to re- infest
your plants and chances are that one or two will escape your barrage of
insecticides. If you see little bugs flying around your plants, they are
probably white flies. The adults are immune to almost all the commercial
insecticides except Fruit and Berry which will not kill the eggs or larva.
It is the larval stage of this insect that does the most damage. They
suck out enzymes too, and kill your plants if they go unchecked. You will
have to get on a spraying program just as was explained in the spider
mite section.
An organic method of bug control is using soap suds. Put
Ivory flakes in some lukewarm water and work up the suds into a lather.
Then put the suds over the plant. The obvious disadvantage is it you don't
rinse the soap off the plant you'll taste the soap when you smoke the
leaves.
We have found that pruning is not always necessary. The
reason one does it in the first place is to encourage secondary growth
and to allow light to reach the immature leaves. Some strands of grass
just naturally grow thick and bushy and if they are not clipped the sap
moves in an uninterrupted flow right to the top of the plant where it
produces flowers that are thick with resin. On the other hand, if your
plants appear tall and spindly for their age at three weeks, they probably
require a little trimming to ensure a nice full leafy plant. At three
weeks of age your plant should have at least two sets of branches or four
leaf clusters and a top. To prune the plant, simply slice the top off
just about the place where two branches oppose each other. Use a razor
blade in a straight cut. If you want to, you can root the top in some
water and when the roots appear, plant the top in moist soil and it should
grow into another plant. If you are going to root the top you should cut
the end again, this time with a diagonal cut so as to expose more surface
to the water or rooting solution. The advantage to taking cuttings from
your plant is that it produces more tops. The tops have the resin, and
that's the name of the game. Every time you cut off a top, the plant seeds
out two more top branches at the base of the existing branches. Pruning
also encourages the branches underneath to grow faster than they normally
would without the top having been cut.
Well, now that you've grown your marijuana, you will want
to cur it right so that it smokes clean and won't bite. You can avoid
that "homegrown" taste of chlorophyll that sometimes makes one's fillings
taste like they might be dissolving. We know of several methods of curing
the marijuana so that it will have a mild flavor and a mellow rather than
harsh smoke.
First, pull the plant up roots and all and hang it upside
down for 24 hours. Then put each plant in a paper grocery bag with the
top open for three or four days or until the leaves feel dry to the touch.
Now strip the leaves off the stem and put them in a glass jar with a lid.
Don't pack the leaves in tightly, you want air to reach all the leaves.
The main danger in the curing process is mold. If the leaves are too damp
when you put them into the jar, they will mold and since the mold will
destroy the resins, mold will ruin your marijuana. You should check the
jars every day by smelling them and if you smell an acrid aroma, take
the weed out of the jar and spread it out on newspaper so that it can
dry quickly. Another method is to uproot the plants and hang them upside
down. You get some burlap bags damp and slip them up over the plants.
Keep the bags damp and leave them in the sun for at least a week. Now
put the plants in a paper bag for a few days until the weed is dry enough
to smoke. Like many fine things in life, marijuana mellows out with age.
The aging process tends to remove the chlorophyll taste. Editor's Note
and Important Warning:
This pamphlet was written about 8 years ago. While the facts,
figures, and methods described here are still valid, an important note
must be added concerning the purchasing of equipment and supplies. The
information age is upon us and and increasing amount of data is being
kept about all of us whether we realize it or not. With the war on drugs
in full effect, the D.E.A. is using this information at every possible
opportunity.
When you make a purchase with a credit card, every last
bit of information regarding that purchase is filed away into a database,
both at the store and with your credit card company. Not only the price,
but the exact date, location, and items purchased are recorded and stored
away. Many stores and credit card companies routinely sell their databases
of customers and transactions to anybody who can afford it. The D.E.A
can certainly afford it. After all, they're using your tax dollars.
The D.E.A. as well as other government agencies DO purchase
these databases for their own uses. They feed them into their computers
and the computers spit out a list of anybody with "suspicious" purchases.
Any purchases that could be associated with drug production, use, or selling
could be flagged for further investigation. These "suspicious" purchases
include unusual chemicals, medical supplies such as syringes, lights and
timers, and even potting soil and fertilizer.
The point is, if you are planning on purchasing supplies
to grow marijuana don't take any chances. While the average home grower,
who is simply growing enough for his own use, would probably never be
flagged by the computers, you never know. If you are purchasing equipment
or supplies, PAY CASH! In addition, many supermarkets and discount stores
now have some sort of "Preferred Customer" cards. When you buy something
, regardless of how you pay, you give them your card to
scan and all of your purchases are recorded. They then send you some sort
of coupon depending on what and how much you purchased each month. It
sounds like a good deal, but you wind up having all of your purchases
recorded and sold just like with the credit cards. DON'T use one of these
cards when you are purchasing anything that might be deemed suspicious.
For that matter, don't use them at all. They just result in a ton of junk
mail and a lot of people knowing exactly what you buy and when you buy
it.
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