This Section Covers Marijuana Growing with Hydro Lighting. Cannabis
Lighting Hydro
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Lighting
The type of lighting used depends on the size of room and the type of
growing method. Indoor growing requires the light intensity, ideally,
to be between 2000 and 3000 lumens/sq. ft.
Tungsten filament bulbs are very inefficient and produce more heat than
light; some sort of gas discharge lamp is required. There is much debate
about the relative merits of the various types: fluorescent tubes, mercury
vapour, metal halide and high pressure sodium. Mercury vapour and metal
halide are useful during the vegetative growth stage; HPS are perfect
for flowering and acceptable for vegetative growth; fluorescent tubes
are general purpose. In the writers opinion, only fluorescent tubes and
HPS need be considered as other types involve a change of lamp when the
flowering stage is induced.
Fluorescent tube systems
Fluorescent tubes and their fittings are available in a range of lengths.
Longer tubes obviously emit more light than short ones. Standard 1in diameter
halophosphate tubes are rated at about 30 watts per metre and output about
2,500 lumens per metre (and 85 lumens per watt). Tubes are available in
a range of colour temperatures: 6000K (daylight), 4000K (cool white),
3500K (white) and 3000K (warm white). Daylight tubes have more blue in
their spectrum and warm white more red. Results are not much different
whatever tubes you use but, if you have the choice, either use a mix of
warm white and cool white or change from cool to warm white when the flowering
stage starts. A quick calculation reveals that to achieve 2000 lumens
per sq. ft you have to virtually cover the entire area of the room's ceiling
with fittings. The fittings can get quite hot, so allow a space between
them for air to circulate.
The light intensity drops quite dramatically as you move away from the
tube; in fact, intensity falls with the square of the distance such that
the intensity at two feet distance is one quarter the intensity at one
foot. This means that plant growth is only really luxuriant up to a few
feet from the tube. Fix the tube fittings to a board which is, itself,
attached by cords or chains to the ceiling; this way the tubes can be
kept as close as possible (a few inches) to the top of the plants. The
board will have to be moved daily when the plants are growing well.
Fluorescents are most useful in situations where you are not growing the
plants very tall. For instance, as a light source for cuttings (clones)
or for the "sea of green" method.
HPS systems
HPS lamps are available in 150W, 250W and 400W sizes. The lumen output
is, respectively, 15,000, 28,000 and 50,000. This amounts to between 100
and 125 lumens per watt, according to the size of lamp. Their colour temperature
is quite low at between 2000K and 3000K; they emit a pinkish, golden white
light which is similar to autumn daylight. Note that recently, a new type
of HPS lamp has been introduced, the SON-T Agro, which has an extra 8%
blue light added to the spectrum making it more acceptable for vegetative
growth than the standard SON-T.
There are several advantages to HPS lamps:
The efficiency, in terms of lumens per watt, is high.
There is usable light at a greater distance from the bulb, compared with
fluorescent tubes.
In most domestic installations, there are only one or two lamps to change
as opposed to maybe twelve or more fluorescent tubes.
Lamps have a long lifetime of 20,000 hours or more (although the output
drops, gradually, during the life of the lamp - it's best to change them
after one year's use).
The disadvantages are:
The cost of an entire system comprising control gear, lamp and reflector
can be several hundred pounds.
The colour temperature is not ideal for vegetative growth although most
growers report acceptable performance.
HPS lamps should be kept at least 18" from the plants to avoid leaf scorch
or even fire! Water should be kept well away from the lamps as they can
explode if splashed.
Timers
The lighting system needs to be switched automatically so that the plants
receive 18 hours of light per day during vegetative growth and 12 hours
per day when flowering. Stores such as Currys and Argos sell timers, which
plug in to an ordinary 13A socket, for less than £20. They claim
to be able to switch 13A but inductive loads such as HPS lamp ballasts
can burn the contacts quite quickly. Use the timer to operate a mains
relay with a higher current rating, e.g. 30A.
For larger or more permanent installations use a surface mounted timer
such as those used in central heating systems. These may have more than
one timed outlet which may be useful if you are operating a two shelf
"sea of green" setup.
Safety
Keep electrical circuits well away from water. Make sure that electrical
wiring is installed following all the conventions used by the professionals,
i.e. use cable of the correct current rating, use the correct rating fuses
and earth all metal components (like control gear boxes) that could be
touched.
Keep anything flammable away from hot lamps. If you can arrange it, fix
a switch near the front door which acts as a master control switch for
the whole grow room's systems. If you have a visit from the landlord or
the boys in blue then you can shut down the lights and fans easily before
anyone hears or sees anything suspicious.
Don't be intimidated by the references to complicated equipment.
Dirt and fluorescent lights will grow you buds better than you may have
ever had before. This will show you how to get started even if you know
nothing about the subject.
First on the list is lights. Try to have at least 25 watts
per square foot but 40 is better. A 4 foot two bulb shop light will do
a space 1' x 4' very nicely and if it spreads out to 1.5' x 4' it's still
acceptable. A one by four foot area like that will grow 3 or 4 plants
to maturity and give you enough to last most people 6 months. Your mileage
may vary. Two shoplites set up 2' x 4' will about double that.
You will need seeds. Some companies will sell you 10 seeds
for as little as $25. If you start 5 you will likely get a few females
and if you get only one you can take cuttings and have as many plants
as you have space for. This is called having a mother plant. Save the
other 5 seeds for your second crop unless you have already had experience.
If you kill the first five you can start over.
The next thing to consider is soil. Potting soil is good
but may be too heavy. Get a bag of potting soil and mix it with equal
parts of sand or perlite. Most any potting soil will do but avoid those
that have clay in them.
Fertilizer is very important. For soil Peters 20-20-20 is
good. Follow the directions and try to resist the temptation to use too
much. You can put the fertilizer in the water you use to water with.
If the directions say to use a certain amount every week
and you water twice a week, use half the amount of fertilizer each time.
After the seedlings are 3" tall let the soil dry out on top before you
water again. Over watering and over fertilizing are the two main causes
of problems for beginners.
Pots, get the cheapest pots you can find. Plastic is cheapest
but clay is fine also. Put a piece of screen over the holes in the bottom
so that the soil won't fall out. Other things you may need are a trowel,
small stakes to prop up seedlings and a timer for the lights. A moisture
meter for the soil is nice but not necessary.
How Do I Start?
Put the seeds in the soil about 1/4 inch down. Water well
and put a sheet of plastic over the top until the sprouts pop through.
Take the plastic off when you see them starting to come up. One seed per
pot.
After they start to come up they need light. The fluorescent
lights that you hung should be about 4 inches above the seedlings and
when they are a few inches tall you can lower it to 2 inches above.
Suspend your light by rope or chains so that you can lower
and raise them easily. One way to do this is to have a pulley system.
Seeds usually take from one day to two weeks to sprout. Keep the soil
wet until they come up. You can leave the lights on all the time or set
the timer for 18 hours on and 6 hours off.
What Does All This Cost Me?
The average cost is as follows;
A) Fluorescent shop light - $10 to $14
each
B) Seeds - the cheapest are about $25 for 10 the cheap
ones are often as good as the expensive and are of good quality. If you
use seeds you found in a bag you will save money but the seeds may have
both male and female flowers and self pollinate. Bag seeds are fine for
beginners
C) Soil - Potting soil and sand or perlite, about $5
to get started
D) Fertilizer - about $4
There you have it, from $44 with one light up to maybe
$65 if you paid a lot and got two lights. If you have your own seeds or
clones it will be cheaper by about $25.
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